Thank you soo much
Hey, thank you for making this video.
Performance compared to spyre? Is it worth it?
Hey, james, Im a huge fan of this channel. I am considering the decathlom triban rc 520 which comes with the post mount version of these brakes in a 105 STI shifter setup. Could you please tell me if these brakes require bleeding like you normally would with a full hydraulic disk setup, if not, then what's the procedure for bleeding just the callipers?
How good are these brakes compared to a full mechanical and a full hydro brakes? Is the modulation ok on these brakes? Many complain that these feel "mushy" with very poor modulation. Is this true based on your experience?
First time i saw a hybrid one .please measure its performance.
I want to build a touring bike out of my bulls Copperhead 3 Rs 29 with dropbars and Campagnolo chorus 12 stis for my SRAM eagle 1x12 and I need good cable breaks for it there are no converters for MTB breaks or I have to build it on my own like 324 adapters. The last option I want to try.
We need those for MTBs and MTBs with dropbars
Is these ok in ultegra r6800 sti?
Does anyone have real world experience with this type of caliper on a touring or bikepacking bike hauling about 50 lbs. in addition to rider weight? I ask because of concerns of heat buildup and brake fade. With this design, the oil is contained in the caliper where most of the heat is retained. If brake fade is a concern, especially during long descents, I see a fix by utilizing a slight modification where the reservoir cap could be replaced by one which has fins cast into the top. Also, using some pads with fins could help too.
One area I ride is the Virginia Creeper trail. After the longish uphill grade, the reward is going downhill for about 30 miles. My current setup uses Shimano cx mechanical brakes. I am starting a new build and I am giving this design a strong consideration.
You gona say that im crazy because i installed hy/rd on my dh bike and it works pretty good with 203mm rotors
Does it work with 9s?
frenata potente e ben modulata, x farla breve, la ruota quando pinzi si blocca...molto meglio degli spyre-c che non frenano una sega !
These are cheap and great choice for Electric bikes ( Rear hub motor) since you cant change the brake lever due to motor cut off safety feature. I am using these caliper with Shimano Ice cool technology rotors to stop a 24 kg ebike. These are the cheapest Hydrolic caliper you can get for ebikes atleast here in Aus
using these on my mongoose xr pro
easy to setup and big improvement
over the calipers that came on the bike
Great brake easy set up. Putone on the front of my tandem with a 203 rotor and XTR levers. Amazing performance even with the stock pads.
Hi James, do you know if the front and the rear flat-mount callipers are interchangeable, and thus weigh exactly the same for front and rear?
Also, if my current setup includes a 140-to-160mm chain stay adapter for the Spyre, but not for front, it's prudent to presume that the same will be the case with the HY/RDs? Thank you.
I was hoping you wouldn’t do it, but you did, and I understand the purpose is for the video I’m hoping.
What are your thoughts on the Yokozuna Motoko vs the TRP? Which one would you use?
Really nice upgrade for my current spyre c
HY RD brakes are the best in Triathlon bikes. Its easy to disassemble when transporting the bike. You just unhook the brake cable to remove the fork.
Thanks for the great, no BS video. Do these come in front and rear or on size fits all? Cheers.
Can the lever "bite point" be adjusted? Like, for example, I want the brakes to bite with just a slight pull on the lever, can the master piston be set a bit inwards for this to happen? Or it has to be fully out (like at 10:30) before tightening the cable pinch bolt?
Nice video mate!
Did you do the comparison with origin8?
Thé Juin system is far lighter. About £100 a pair, comes with discs! That’s an insane bargain. Can save over 300g to mechanised trp spyres...
Awesome video! Big help as I am looking to this brake switch. Thanks!
I 've just destroyed my "hand adjustment" circular thingy for the "stable pad" of a promax renderr (similar to avid bb5), was thinking of buying a the HY/RD. In the meantime after 5hours of tinkering i just removed the circular plastic part and I can still adjust it with an allen key. My brakes work again, but when I get some money I'll get the HY/RD; Thanks to your detailed review, I've clarified every question I had. BTW. I 've spent a fortune for a Cannondale Synapse and I'm totally disappointed in Cannondale. First, I had thread problems in the crankset, second I had these weak brakes that it turned out they can be destroyed easily.
Great video! Thanks! Had long-pull issues with my Campagnolo levers and the TRP HyRds. I saw where TRP recommended cutting another cable groove but I wanted to avoid cutting anything. Changed out the arms with 3rd party upgrade arms and flipped the cable bolt around and screwed it in from the back on the unit. Viola! World of difference! Now pretty much perfect in all respects!
Also... from what i understand they will work with almost any stock set up (cables and levers) BUT to get the must out of them use long levers and Kevlar reinforced compressionless cables. Jagwaire has the best cables I've ever used. And 80% of my experience comes from motorized bicycles Heavy and fast. If they work great for me they will work great for others
I just got a post mount TRP hy/rd for my phatmoto rover 2020 motorized bike came with a very very nice trp 180mm rotor only like $80 very happy. It stops me great on a 100lbs bike with a 186lb rider (gas motor) that goes 40mph.
Do Hy rds require short or long pull levers
I'm using flat handle bar on my 20" folding bike that originally comes with mechanical disc break tektro md c510 single actuated caliper together with tektro 2 finger lever pull.
Since my bike frame is originally flat mount type (front fork and rear stay) I'm planning to upgrade my break system to flat mount trp hd c710 silver caliper very soon. Because I think it would be easier installation just to switch the caliper plug and play right..??
Regards to longer pull problem as many people came across..
My question is by turning the barrel adjuster (both caliper and lever) to bring the pad closer to the disc without rubbing them does this method solved the problem...?? (Remember 2 finger flat handle bar lever)
Is this good idea or shall I completely change to fully hydraulic brake system like shimano...??
What is your thought and please advice me.
Have a nice day..
Excellent video about the HY/RD brakes. Thanks!
I had never considered the complexity of in-line brake levers in a hydraulic setup before - great point! On a commuter bike, being able to brake quickly from all hand positions is key! Now just need to settle on which cable actuated hydro setup to use with my Campy shifters!
I'm converting my rim brake road bike to disc with this puppy, just need a new front fork and I'm all set.
Hi, my setup bike Triban 100, brakes Shimano BR-R7000 (105, rim brakes), tire Schwalbe G-One Allround 700x35C, wheels Shimano WH-RS100. Still many space for tire I guess even up to 700x40c
Sweet video. For the first 20 seconds, I genuinely thought this guy was speaking German.
Hi man quick question: I have a tarmac sl6 that would fit 28-30mm tires but the shimano 8000 calipers are the partypooper. I have a 21mm internal width rim and would like to use these Tektro calipers. Are these direct mount? Would you say the calipers, not the frame, accommodate 28-30mm easily?
Nice upgrade!! I have checked my bike, which is Kuota Kharma road, the fork clearance isn't enough for wider tire, actually i have 25mm tire, and that's almost the largest one i could have
I'm looking to change my gravel bike to rims. I have got Shimano hydro discs and hate them.
Horray for Mid-Reach brakes like these TRP. I have a pair but on a semi-custom Ti frame :). I really think more bikes should have brakes of this design.
Thank you for the info. it helps me a lot for the upgrade of my RC 120. (Philippines)
I have v brake or canti's on all my gravel, cyclo cross set ups. To old to change now and set up correctly with kool stop pads they work just fine.
Done the same kind of thing on my RC120, but with Tektro R557
I have a question, from your experience do you think i should go for the rc120 disk or spend a bit more and get the 500?
Keep it up man! Im actually gonna get the same bike.
Keeping everything else stock (wheels and rim calipers), can I just fit a 35mm tube and tires?
I want to completely upgrade my 1990 Giant Yukon MTB to make it a "gravel bike. I want to put the Shimano 105 R7000 2x11 groupos but I can NOT find any 27.5" (650B) wheel sets for rim brakes. The bike came with 26" wheels but going to 650B should be no problem if I could only find some reasonably priced wheel set for 650B rim brakes. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks man, very informative and entertaining
Hi, just wanted to let you know, I am running 35mm tires on my Centurion Cyclocross from 2010 and using the stock 105 and everything works fine, they fit.
I had exactly the same idea in upgrading my RC120 to a gravel setup. Very helpful video, I’m considering these or Tektro R539s as an alternative.
"It seems rediculous to mount them on a bike as cheap as the RC 120...The Brakes came in a very nice package" - Danke dafür, ich musste laut lachen. :D
EDIT: Übrigens als Tipp an die Allgemeinheit: Man kann auch einfach die Bremsbeläge aus den originalen Bremsen rausnehmen, bei mir passt das dann schon mit dem Rad rausnehmen (hab auch 35mm Reifen drauf). Dann muss man nicht den Reifendruck verringern. Empfinde ich so als deutlich angenehmer :)
Just asking, you mean I cannot fit a 35mm with the stock rc120 rim callipers ?
With new wheels and rim brakes this bike looks awesome now - even better than some other bikes with disc brakes. I'm curios about further upgrades :)