Shankar , near ambedekar statue,catonment , vijaynagaram,AP
I bought this, poor product, its loose now and doesnot hold, used it for probable 4/5 and is useless now.
Yeh Kitna Ka h? Aur size?
Super
Woodglut Blueprints has some very useful blueprints with all the details you need.
Size & total price kya hai
Nice
If you add purchase link yor all unboxing videos i think you get more like and share and subcribers
Good day
Good
Good
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Nice
All of them. You should buy all of the clamps. I have over 1,000, almost all of them see regular use, and I frequently wish I had more. Just buy all the clamps. Woodworking is primarily the process of spending money on clamps.
Perfect video great summary at the end
Thanks very useful. Where's the angle clamps in the list ?
good ol Bessey, Wetzler, Stabil F clamps are the best clamps for cabinetmaking. Klemmsia's also.
Great video! Thanks!
I have to say, I agree with you 100%. I do have some aluminum bar clamps that were given to me and they are working too.
Great video thank you
Thank you Thank you Thank you!BobEngland
As a newb woodworker, I was not aware there were so many types of clamps. Thanks!
The cheap pistol grip ones I have used arent very smooth, but they can still provide a strong clamping force.
Well, whenever you're ready to ship your pipe to get more space or to get rid of them, I'm here... waiting.... ready to get started in woodworking...Just let me know when you're ready.
Thank you very much, this video about clamps was the best and most helpful for me ez to understand
On the "Bar Clamps" to make them much lighter, try using Aluminum Rigid Pipe. No corrosion or marring issues either.
Thanks. I am going to be adding a second shop at my snow bird location and this will help me think about how to outfit that shop.
Good tutorial on clamps. I continue to purchase and add clamps to my inventory. I only own premium quality clamps having given up on cheap tools decades ago. My last clamp inventory count was around 250 clamps and I still don't have enough. Your description could have also included beam style clamps. Some if mine likely predate me, but I still use them frequently for large project glue ups.Galvanized pipe mitigates the staining problem from black iron. Pipe clamps are ineffective with deep jaws, because pipe bends too much from the jaw leverage advantage. I haven't found any practical use for any 1/2" pipe clamps,. The pipe bends too easily and the clamping screws are underrated. I have never seen 1" pipe clamps, but that size sounds interesting. Wood workers should consider plastic jaw pads for every clamp style. This eliminates the need for secondary padding and more than the two hands God gave you.Parallel jaw clamps and Quickgrip style clamps are my absolute first go to in my hobby shop.You are correct that clamp style is a personal preference, and most of my F style clamps go unused. There are a lot of clamp brands to choose from. Bessey is my go to for parallel jaw. Other brands may be as good, but lesser brand quality usually cost as much as Bessey, so I am afraid to experiment. Jorgensen is my preferred pipe clamp brand. Irwin changed their Quickgrip style and though I purchased 20 or so of the new style, I am giving them away. I have dozens of the old proven style, so I haven't tried the new version. I have several DeWalt Quickgrip style, some with the spreader feature. They perform similarly to Quickgrip.Pipe clamps without pads double for me weld shop. I found that various dedicated pipe clamp lengths is far more practical than changing and coupling pipe. I haven't seen Jorgensen brand pipe clamp pads for sale in a long time. Rockler substitutes don't work well. The plastic is inferior. I purchased a bunch of snap on plastic standoffs for 3/4" pipe clamps many years ago, and wish that I could find more. They pad wood from pipe staining. They also help align wide panel glue ups. Jorgensen/Pony pipe clamps are made in two versions. Some have a square foot that prevents roll over on the bench top. Other makers include this feature with tall enough standoffs to allow the forcing screw handle to clear the bench top. This could be a handy feature, but I don't own any.I recommend Armstrong for C clamps. There are some other quality industrial brands, but start with Armstrong and work down from there. Acme threads or double lead V threads are a must for forcing screws if clamping force is required. Stumpy showed a cheap C clamp, which probably explains his skewing complaint. The real disadvantage of C clamps in the woodshop is the three hand requirement and material marring. Quality C clamps won't skew. Most industrial grade C clamps are unpainted. I rattle can mine and that enhances them for use in the woodshop.I tried only one version of aluminum frame beam clamp. They are Jorgensen/Pony and they are awful. The more than parallel plastic deep jaws are so hard that the outboard jaw ends mar the wood. They are light, and the deep jaws provide reach over other clamps in place in complicated glue ups, but forcing screw jaw attachment feature is under engineered and it comes apart. I keep them only for the jaw throat depth. My bad experience has kept me from trying other aluminum frame clamp brands, and I have a pretty hefty inventory of other clamps.Jorgensen makes a F style pipe clamp. They look handy and rugged, do I own a few, but the clamping jaws are hard to keep inline. Traditional F style clamps rely on "rectangular" geometry to eliminate this problem and provide a deeper throat. F style clamps normally have small clamping faces and available clamping force can mar wood even when padded. This is why I opt for Quickgrip. Clamping force is limited, so there is little chance of pad damage to the wood and they are very one hand operation. F style one hand operation takes more pilot skill. F style provides reach and jaw clearance where jaw interference is an issue.Visegrip welding clamps are available in flat swivel jaw pad configurations. You can go wild with jaw depth, height, size, etc. variations. The auto haw adjust is a nice feature. I just picked up a Hanson version that is a high quality tool.Second hand clamps is my preferred way to buy. Quality clamps are hard to damage. Damage is obvious. Cheap clamps have no place in my shop. A quality clamp works always and a cheap clamp may work sometime.Some major brands include cheap clamps in their product offering. Wilton, Pony, JET, Bessey, Irwin are good examples of product lines that include inferior versions. I would like to know if other other clamp nerds recommend brands that I don't own.My common and preferred brands are:ArmstrongWiltonJorgensen/PonyBesseySnap-OnOld Vise-gripQuickgripDeWalt (Quickgrip style)HargraveWilliams
Unfortunately, you missed the best clamp of all by far. The Hartford bar clamp. They are very strong, relatively lightweight, compact, far less bulky than the Bessey bar clamp - the goto clamp for anyone that owns them. I have 12 24" and 12 36" - for the right clamping job, they are the 1st clamp I go to and would be the last clamp I give up.
Which clamps should you buy?All of them...A LOT of all of them....
I like the deep throat clamp
I would also like to say thank you for the information you are posting in your videos. I truly think you have saved me a bunch of money as I would have purchased the wrong things for the right reason.
So very much on point. F clamps takes the lead indeed.
How much sir
In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.
I have small version of that clamp with the wooden handle and its says made in China.
Thanks
Ok ok
Great work Alex
Got to say, that grub screw is a brilliant idea. Cheers.