Hello Sir, this is Made in which country..? Please
Hi m8 will it drill into brick ?
Can you review the Stanley SFMCD721?
What is your thoughts, which is better to buy:
Bosch GSB 180-li OR Stanley SCH20C2K?
What is the pros and cons from each other?
(i need an experdt advise before i buy one from the two)
Is this Stanley SCH20C2K is an impact driver and a hammer drill?
(can be use in driving a screw?, drilling in wood/metal? and be use in drilling in concrete?)
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hi..just recently bought this drill, I notice spark on the motor during start and stop..is this normal?
Thanks Mark, got your link from Takelot although wasn’t easy to cut and paste from there to get here. Awaiting delivery of mine
Thats an awesome review man. Whats your opinion: should i get this for 120€?
Hi i like the look of this combie but how dse it compair to this. DEWALT DCD778M2T-SFGB 18V 4.0AH LI-ION XR BRUSHLESS CORDLESS COMBI DRILL. Im stuck between the two thanks and they look very simlar
How are you man .. I want to ask you a question .... Why did you buy this edition and not buy the brushless edition ?? Because I like this version very much, but I am confused between this version and the brushless version, so I think that this version is very distinctive in terms of quality of manufacture, durability, aesthetics and the feature of the battery indicator .... So what do you recommend ... Thank you very much
I'm torn between buying a Ryobi drill with 2 batteries for £80 or Stanley drill and impact driver set for £100. Help. Is the Stanley long lasting
Thanks for the comments - perhaps any other questions about this product? Let me know.
Awesome review thank you.
Nice piece of equipment. Would be nice if you could demonstrate on maybe two different materials.
I give a channel and a layman
very nice 👍👏👏👏
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Hi max 20mm hemmar 600w 10000r
Ic 072 model
Price kaya he. Jarrur batana bhai
Kya isse diwar me drill kr skte h?
The same amount of force is being applied to the fastener, but instead of a quick hit, it's spread out over a longer period of time. If you ask me it kind of defeats the purpose of an impact driver, losing some benefit of the impact, although its probably negligible.
In the description can you add the number who carries it and the price?
Just the tip!
So its a torque stick?
You sell Mils, we get it.
I bought a set and to my positive surprise, it contained a large amount of the same bits. When they snap in half, I laugh.
Saludos desde CHILE
Video is very helpful. I too was confused with packaging and the functionality of the the bit holders etc. I will not be buying this kit.
At 140 ft/lbs of torque coming out of my Kobalt 24 volt 1/4" impact wrench, if there's any loss at all on the longer bits, it would not make any difference.
Love your videos. I have learned so much and you have such an approachable style. Funny, entertaining, real and down to earth. Love it! Thanks for doing them. +1 sub!!
Thanks for clarifying the information. I saw the set at Lowe's for $34.98 for 40 piece flex torq set. Then Amazon has the 40 piece set for $19.99. Going with Amazon
When people understand that we are a nation of consumers and we are easily sucked into buying anything....Theres a reason why power tools are designed to look like sport cars, race bikes and manly 4x4's....
Short version limits the maximum torque at the bit/fastener interface and flattens the curve lbft/time.
The flex torque zone or "shaft" between the bit tip and the hex end twists elastically over a certain torque value for example 10,000 lbft. so if you put 11,000 lbft of torque your fastener would get 10,000lbft and the shaft would deflect 1000lbft. now because it is elastic when you stop putting in torque the shaft will untwist putting the force from the shaft twisting into your fastener. I do not know what the shaft is rated at, but your fastener will see the torque applied minus minor heat losses, but it will not see the max torque applied if over the shaft value. it will spread the excess torque out over a time and flatten the top of the curve which will make it less likely to shear or damage the head of the fastener. I would consider it to be effective on most low torque screws, but I wouldn't use it on longer and thicker bolts and screws(3/8 lag) as you with probably plastically deform the shaft.
I'm a new to the channel and it seems like you have something against dewalt lol
Still use cheap bits, still haven't broken anything.
Spyderco knives aren’t the best. I’d trade every other knife I own for more spyderco’s.
I bet this dude has white frame sunglasses like a tool
I never had any luck with DeWalt bits at all but I never have used this product May roll the dice on it
Those bits ar for hard wood. They reduce the risk of shear a screw by smoothing the torque applied to the fasteners
Torque is a vector product linearly dependent on the radius. If the tip flexes, it de facto gets a little shorter. So torque is reduced a bit. Not by much.
Hockey sticks flex for a reason, actually increases torq. I’d bet these loose none or increases torque.
What is the model of Dewalt Impact driver
You sir are going to make some man very happy one of these days.
Straight to the point , thanks darling, now let’s go get a pint🍺
These multi-material drill bits are great, I used some from bosch (with a blue coat) to install some locks on ATM's vault, some model have 3 layers, steel-concrete-steel so these bits worked amazing to get through that concrete layer
Really appreciate this post. Never heard of these bits. These tool combinations have application specific uses but the laws of physics and mechanics still cannot be defied. Least not by mortals.
I'd enjoy having these bits, the screwdrivers and a nice impact on a cable/conduit run where there's fastening to timber and concrete on the same run.
Yet ever so often, part-way into a block there is a vein of something (flint, granite? Of course you'd know if it was rebar) that just ignores this type of drilling and bits.
After some choice language one would have to climb down for the trusted old corded hammer and have it pulverize the dickens out of that tough spot!
If you have a hammer drill, then just use it, yeah an impact will eventually go through brick etc, spinning without the hammer function just ruins the bit, and take so much longer.
Scary, it's almost snaps
its because impact drivers apply their "impact" rotationally, not back and forth like a hammer drill. Hammer drills plunge in and out, which is really how masonry bits are designed to work. Just rotating a masonry bit is going to dull it. Masonry bits will work with the impact driver, for a little while, but it wont be long before its dull.
Good video. Like it. I’ve came to see if I was drilling correctly as I was struggling with my ‘so called top of the range powerful DeWALT DCD996 Combi drill and even setting at hammer drill I struggled to make a dent on a stone built wall. Maybe i was using cheap Black & Decker drill bits. I will order some expensive ones and see if it works. I understand Combi drills mainly works well on wood etc.. but they also advertise it can be used on hard walls too such to drill on a partition wall to hung a pic for example.
Thanks for the info ... Great vid m8
awesome video thanx info was very useful
Ive been trying to figure out how others are able to drill into concrete with an impact. I must be doing something wrong. Think i spent 5 mins trying with new bits and my makita. Lol i totally gave up and went and bought a hammerdrill. Did it in seconds.
try using water instead of dry drilling that will help alot and it wont destroy your bit common sense .
Was I the only one blowing on my phone screen to clear away the concrete dust?
Wow, big mistake in this video is not periodically lifting the driver to clear the hole of debris. This simple move make s the drilling much more efficient than just jamming your way through.
Dewalt impacts just suck ass. Them things get hotter than any other brand and fail constantly. I would just drill through the mortar instead of the brick itself.
These bits make no sense when drilling concrete the impact is the most important part. What a hammer drill or preferably a rotary hammer does is makes the bit impact the surface causing a chip then the drill head digs into that chip. What your impact is doing is not the same the impact is entirely rotational you would probably get through faster with a titanium bit with a pilot head. All this bit will do is lead to premature failure of your impact driver I suggest you invest in a rotary hammer if you look to drill concrete even hammer drills aren't very effective at impacting they just use ratchet drives to create vibration more so then actual hammering.
Stop immediately if you smell any burning as the motor is about to go out. Have burnt up several dewalts when using large hole saws, which admittedly is too much for it.
I put the 2x speed part at 4:33 on 2x speed. I went to a different dimension. AMA