Great job, Joey. Nicely presented. Stay classy.
Never had an issue with GXP, no noise, nothing. I usually pop my cranks off, pop the dust covers off the bearings, clean the old grease out then pack them with Shimano synthetic grease, pop the covers and cranks back on. They will last forever if you take care of them.
Sharing my experience, it is bad, it flexes, it creaks and the chain drops due to the wave washer tiny compliance (and spider flex). After 16 months on a Quarq DZero pm I can already see the bearings marks on the axle as predicted by engineering analyses ;) (Please don't say you installed something wrong, we are all adults here.)
i think that you have to remember that the weakness of Hambini's reviews are that he is sent components and frames that are all screwed up to begin with. So his reviews are totally biased to the junk side because the parts that he is supplied with are junk. My view is that he is really reviewing that outer limits of the quality control. One important thing to think of is that he actually says what they are supposed to be such as maximum bearing clearance fits. For instance, Trek BB90 bearings have a 0.1 mm interference fit. The quality control on the BB90 is not very good and hence with not a lot of age, they start hammering the bearing loose and it starts making a lot of noise. Trek also supplies oversize bearings but these things are 0.8 mm interference fit which is far too large and would beat the bearings to death rapidly and replacing these oversize bearings would ream the press fit out and soon make it unusable. In response to this problem Trek has apparently made a special boring tool that will open these BB holes up to the required 0.1 mm fit. The weakness of this is that if you knock these loose you're SOL. So the 2021 Trek top end frames have T47 thread-in bearings. If you manage to screw this up you simply replace it with a new one. The basis of a lot of problems is that there are FAR too many riders that weight over 220 lbs riding these parts that are actually designed for 190 lb riders max. One of the local riders happily bought his Trek frame new from a certified dealer and has broken four of them since he weights over 240. The Trek lifetime warranty really has paid for itself over and over. Were you to send one of these frames to Hambini after he's broken them up, he would really roast them and really it is not Trek's fault at all. So the view of a professional mechanic and an engineer that is trying to correct these problems makes for a lot of "French" if you know what I mean.
I'm relatively new to bike maintenance so sorry if this is a dumb question. My bike has a SRAM Rival crankset with GXP bottom bracket. It spins very freely considering there's no play, even after a lot of miles in bad conditions, so in practice it's actually spinning much more smoothly than my other bike with Shimano HT2 preloaded enough to remove play. But recently when I was inspecting my bike with the SRAM crankset, just messing around with it to check for any looseness anywhere, I noticed if I put my weight on a pedal (bike on floor) I can see the crank arm flex inward quite a lot. It's probably always been that way, but visually it flexes more than I expected. I know frames and components flex, and that stiffness and compliance are things people want in different areas, but I was just surprised how much flex there is. I don't know what's normal. I can't tell if it's mostly the crank arm itself flexing, or if it's more the spindle pressing against the bearings radially. I don't feel play here, I just see elastic bending which I'm calling flex.
So I was gonna ask my local mechanic or a forum about what range of this is normal. But then I watched this and I noticed near the end you were checking for the same thing by squeezing the crank arms toward the chain stays with your hands. And it looked like a similar amount of movement for the force applied. When you do this, what are you checking for, i.e. how much movement is too much? Is this something GXP does more than other standards because of its asymmetry? After seeing this I have new appreciation for people's obsession with stiffness in the pedaling area. Otherwise I do like things supple.
I'm having problems where the bolt keeps working loose, its happened about 5 or six times now. After watching this video I will take off the wavy washer, and try it again.
6:30 - I think, you know the answer from Shibas video: the radial gap is still there (because of the wrong choice of bearing size), you just cannot feel with your hands, because it is tightened. But be sure, your body weight will be enought.
The other design failure - as you mentioned in a comment -: the NDS bearing gets all of the axial loads, while DS gets radial only. That is the same what Hambini sad.
I have gxp it ran fine but I feel some type of pull.. can I change gxp to bb Infinity?
I fully agree .
I had a creaking bb30 and brought it to a bike shop .
There they installed a wheels mfg bottom bracket .
After 6 month again creak , i took out the bottom bracket spacers myself and put locktite retaining compound between the wheels mfg and the bb30 aluminium innershell and finally the creak is gone .
As said here already after that take out the wave washer and some spacers of the cranck assemby and adjust untill everything is without play after tightening and running smooth
Also dont put all the spacers on 1 side , try to center the sram gxp assembly .
And now my sram red gxp runs smooth as hell.
I put also light sewing machine oil in the enduro bearings after flushing the old bearing grease out .
My bearings are 3 years old already but still fine
according to SRAMs website a gap between the crank and driveside bearing is normal...
Thanks for the video Joey Mesa.
Having ridden a host of different BB configs over the years and having had very little problems with most of 'em I still agree with Hambini's criticism of the GXP design. That is, the non-drive side bearing takes of all the lateral load required to secure the crankset. Greater friction and accelerated bearing wear especially when typically shoddy QA/QC protocols are factored in, eg, misalignment of the bearing surfaces in the BB shell, are the results.
That doesn't mean I'm going to ditch my SRAM Apex crankset as it's on a S&S coupled bike and the convenience of completely removing the crankset with one 8mm allen wrench supersedes design deficiencies.
Mediocre designs can be functionally adequate but they should never be mistaken for good or optimal designs. This is the point I believe Hambini was making and having no problems with our GXP's doesn't negate that.
I've run GXP across multiple bikes and frames (threaded and pressed) and haven't had any issues.
I ran one of these things a few years back. Very worst crankset I have ever owned, hands down. The thing would creak just by looking at it, well not really, but it was almost that bad. Bearing life was also a joke. Bearings had to be replaced towards the end of season 1. Ended up ebaying it and recovering very little of my loss. This is simply a very poor design, and what makes the design exceptionally poor is that even if you gorilla the non drive side crank arm down to center the bearing on the beveled shoulder as you claim if that beveling is out of tolerance at all you will not center the bearing properly. Mechanical fact! This is a perfect example of a design flaw that will almost always play itself out in the fabrication phase of the product (unless you have both very, very tight tolerances and the ability to fab to those tight tolerances consistently - which SRAM does not !) because it is a design with very little "tolerance" for fabrication error or installation error in order to work correctly. Given SRAM's miserable history regarding their actual fabrication tolerances (they are well known in the industry to be a joke compared to Campy and Shimano) I will never buy one of their cranks again. I have run several different generations of both Shimano and Campagnolo cranks on road, cross, gravel and MTB's, and never once had the issue I had with that SRAM GXP junk. In addition, the very moment I removed that SRAM junk and replaced it with a basic Ultegra 6000 series crankset, guess what, creaking issues immediately disappeared and the bearings on those cranks are still going strong after multiple seasons. So it was not a frameset issue.
Do you have a link for the delrin spacers you were talking about? I have a feeling I will need these as there is some space on the drive side of the Force 22 cranks I am trying to install. They spin just fine and the non drive side is pressed against the gxp bb nicely but the drive side does not look flush. Thanks!!
I see a lot of flack to Hambini, but in his defence, i think people are missing the point, the reason he doesn't like SRAM/ZIPP, is one, not the design, but the variance in their tolerances, he is not a bike wrench, he works in the aerospace industry and if you say it is made to these tolerances, it is. Whilst the bike industry states a poor tolerance, or doesn't follow their own specs. That is his argument, same with bike frames.
In essence, you can get a poor one or a good one, luck of the draw, that is his issue, apart from the false marketing.
So yes Joey, you get them to work, but should you have to with a 10k bike? That really is the question?
Hi Joe, very informative video thanks! I recently installed a SRAM GXP and SRAM RED crankset- with no spacers on a road bike- the crankset is not running smoothly- it is very stiff to turn- should I have used the spacers?
I had problems with GXP : a lot of play on the ND side after around 2000 km. And I don't apply excessive torque on it (not a sprinter, very light rider that speen the leg).
Very good i seen that video to you make alot of sense
I find a lot of complaints about this crank stem from improper installation or maintenance.
I’ve had GXP on my last three Bikes and only had an issue with my current hardtail MTB and that’s because it got used as winter bike. Unfortunately I put some wear on my smaller spindle race... I did seem to fix it using a beer can as a shim since there was nothing to loose.
Hi Joey thanks for the video. One of Hambini's beefs was the variance when he measured the non-drive side's splines on the spindle. I have a pressfit 86 and worn 50T chainring that I want to replace. I have had my bearings out 3 times in 18 months. I ride alot in the rain and creaking has developed again, slight this time. What would you recommend to replace it. The tiagra crankset is not easy to find a single chainring plus i would like to go smaller (46T?). I am willing to look at other BBs. You seemed to think a 30mm spindle isn't as good? What mid priced BB have you liked? Thx.
Who gives a shit bro??? Anyone can open a box!!! Sheeeeeeeeesh!!!!
what a waste of time and video space
What's the bearing size number?
that bottom bracket can fit in merida scultura?
If I may ask you how much the cost of a new one?
This was a very helpful video for me. I wasn't sure if my BB was the same but your video confirmed it for me. Thanks a bunch dude, its scary ordering parts when you have no clue what you're doing!
removal and installation video are usefull... this is a waste of time
just wasted 51 secs of my live
utterly pointless video
super vidéo, viens voir mes vidéos mec
I'm so bored I watched this.
same as Wheels Mfg out of Colorado, another great Bottom Bracket/Bearings maker....BB86 Fat Bottom Bracket was a piece of cake on my carbon 90 SuziQ Fatbike, 177mm rear. www.wheelsmfg.com
Thanks for the link to the BB. My SRAM Dub just kicked the bucket yesterday.
Lol 😂. That sounds like my bike 😳
You are looking great. 👍😀
I'll try to do it to mine once I get the right BB as I don't know which BB I need ,Scott specs only wrote Sram GPX PF 41×89,5 mm , there are so many online I don't knowIs it BB86 or BB92 to buy ? I could used help
I would really like to find a non press fit replacement for my creaking BB92. I have a race face next R crank with a 30mm crank shaft ...not sure what crank set and diameter is on your ride? ...hoping tri peak has one that will work for me ...
what Casio Watch is that ?
I’ve got this job to do, I’d love to know how this bb performed? Is it still going strong?
Will this work with Race Face Evolve SS Crankset 170mm NW32T Black 9/10/11 crankset?
"30nm to this snug ergghh!" So thats is 30nm, its easy.. erghh is 30nm guys
Perfect, (I'm actually picking up a fuel ex) I am impressed that the prongues still have something to catch even with that middle-spacer
u r awesome my friend 👍🏼
Is the dub spindle fits that bb
Sram cranks are a gift from the devil. Not only does the GXP standard destroy one bearing faster than the other, it also has some known tolerance issues which results in some very sloppy fitting.
I just tried to do mine exactly like this with the same parts
2015 trek fuel ex7
I couldnt get the 2 sides to close up on the bottom bracket without a lot of torque. So much that o stripped the bb. Had a hard time getting it off. 60$ out and bikes taken apart
Excellent video I have that same frame, only mine is aluminum.
really surprised at how similar they look, very few differences in the way they look... I'm curious as to how difficult the bottom brackets going to be to service.
Great video though, absolutely just what I needed
I'm looking to replace dub pressfit 92 on bnbike and DIY removal and install came to memory, so started looking at people's ideas and eventually came here. I've got same bike ha ha ha
Correction:no I don't, mine is alloy ex7
that new threaded BB looks like it's sticking way out on the drive side. Did you have to realign your rear derailleur?
Very helpful, thanks!
Thanks for this video. I'm going to need to remove mine and this vid provided some comfort on the process!
Do you ride with a press fit BB?
should the retaining compound be allowed a set up time before riding? Like a few hours or overnight?
Hello Doddy, watched the video but unsure why the assembly compound was mentioned. It looks like you only used in in the one area when reassembly of the crank but not BB?
I run a SRAM DUB PRESSFIT 92 mm.
Material: Aluminum, Steel
Weight: 71g (PF92)
Compatibility: DUB™ bottom brackets fit all frame shell standards
I have a carbon Frame Trek Fuel 9.8.
Should I be using Park Tool Assembly Compound instead of Park Tool AP-1 / Park Tool RC-1?
so you just not gonna grease that drive side crank spindle?
That is a dirty bike ? Your crank is filthy ? ... Ok so I guess a new adjective is needed to describe my bike :)
Would the rocket tool damage a carbon frame?
hmmm i'd try a hard wood or plastic dowel rod before going to a large flat head screw driver.... didn't look like you had to whack too hard, but maybe you already had it apart for the vid.
You shouldv adjusted the camera angle when you were working on the crank
Good job , but the bracket beraring removal no fit when use of punch hammer , slep bracket is light moviment no impact is better it s my opinion
Did you lube the axle before you reinstalled it?
Too many commercials!
I noticed that you are using your torque wrench incorrectly. In order to torque to the correct value, you have to hold your wrench by its grip. Every time you lengthen/shorten your wrench it changes the torque value. There are formulas to apply when using extensions. Each torque wrench is calibrated for its length. Not trying to be a smartass, just trying to pass a valuable information.
Good one, thanks!!
I loved it when Dod so detailed on this kind of job. My Scott is kinda rough when pedal back and tickling on high gear, I tought it was BB but after watching this, I'm sure its only cartridge bearing.
do you recommend shimano assembly paste or loctite?
Hi, I just installed my pressfit BB86 with resing cups (Shimano BB-RS500) for the first time inside my bare carbon shell. Is it normal for the resing cups (or bare carbon) to snap/click loud like this when pressing in ? I was afraid I am damaging something ( I was using a home made press tool) but I ensured that the cups were prefitted parallel to the shell axis. I also lubricated both the cups and the shell with a little bit of waterproof grease. I think that even though the grease has been applied, the cups were sort of 'tension jumping' due to the friction with carbon but I want to make sure that this snapping noise is normal for bare carbon shells. can you advise ?
Excellent guide! That said, _man,_ do I appreciate my threaded BB a lot more now. =) If I'm buying something new in the future, I'd want something like a T47 BB.
Is he using Park Tool's RT-1 or RT-2?
Great content and video but the watch is extremely gaudy and distracting, especially when combined with the rubber gloves in a maintenance video.
Whatever you do concerning a Bottom Bracket, Do not buy a Token Ninja, I made the mistake of purchasing one. It failed in less than 50 miles. The eBay Clown Cyclingboss_us I bought it from start accusing me of using it wrong before even knowing anything about what happened to it. Token would not replace it because I bought it off eBay, And get this, I was told that the bearing, yes the bearing is not covered under the warranty. So I out $77.00 USD. But lesson learned. No Token products and never ever buy from a Taiwanese seller calling himself Cycvlingboss_us.