Funny you mention theatre ...you can't seem to remember any of your lines! lol.
What was your ISO set at and how long was your exposure for the astrophotography shot with this lens?
I'm looking for a wide angle lens for automotive photography. Do you think this is a great option? I've been looking into this lens for a while now and now its also making me interested in astrophotography as well!
That's true there are no videos on this, thanks
Still using 80d
You can also use with Fullframe. The does not protrude as deep as normal Canon Aps-c Lenses in the body. Vignetting for Photos not so good, but for filming i find ok, an this with F2.0 for this money !!!
What camera are you using?
What are some of your favorite budget wide angle lenses and how do they compare?
Has Samyang checked the lens before sending it for review? Has it undergone a more stringent quality control? I am trying to decide between a Samyang 16mm and Irix 15mm. Some reviews of the Samyang on Amazon report things like "This copy has an astigmatism on the left as well as sever coma. The right has minimal of either, leading me to believe that like many of the Rokinon/Samyang lenses that an element is off center. More than a few buyers have had to return these lenses, like I have done for this reason to get a good copy." How confident can I be of obtaining a good copy?
Excellent review. I own the sister lens by Rokinon, but it's the same just under a different name. I agree, it is a fascinating lens for the price.
Just got this for Fuji X mount in cine version, 100€. Truly a hidden gem lens.
Can It be used for portraits?
Hello Mr. Frost,
First of all, I have to say that I appreciate your videos very much. They're always informative and I get a really nice and detailed overview over the lenses performance with all its strengths and weaknesses. Thank you so much for all the effort and time you put in making your videos.
But long story short, I have a question about the Samyang 16mm f/2.0 and hopefully you can help me in this regard.
I am a beginner and I have a Canon EOS 200D (SL2) Camera with an APS-C sensor and I've upgraded from the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens to the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC HSM because I wanted to have a faster aperture to be more flexible in my style of photography. My favourite 'types' of photography are landscape-photography, macro-photography (I've already got some extension tubes) and I really want to be able to take good pictures of the milky way and the stars in general one day. I've heard that a maximum aperture of f/2.8 is already good for astrophotography but a faster aperture is even better. I wondered whether this lens is worth buying additionally because of its faster aperture and minimal wider field of view of 16 mm compared to the 17 mm of the Sigma lens? Is there really a big difference between a focal length of 17 and 16 mm on an APS-C Camera? And if there's not is it nevertheless worth buying for landscape- and astrophotography because of its faster aperture and very sharp pictures?
It would be really great if you responded to my question but you don't have to for sure.
(I'm a 17 year old student and I'm still learning English. As mentioned before, my English is far away from being 'perfect' and some mistakes might have occurred in this text as well but I hope you could understand in some way what I wanted to say in this comment.)
Bought it . Love it
i dont think it works in FX on my nikon Z6 ,this thing refuse all dx lenses in FX, so if i buy it ,i will have a beautifull 24mm ....???
I Have got this lens for the sony emount and it is longer by just over an inch as it has a add on part at the rear of the lens for the sony but I love the 24mm focal length on apsc and I'd like to reiterate what you've said that it is very sharp and it's colour rendition is on the warm side but not ott .great work as ever chris
Hi, i just bout it, but my Canon 200d don t do the video whit this lens. Can you help me.
I wish Samyang would come out with a 4mm fisheye
much respect for your channel Christopher.
I''ve bought my first DSLR camera a few weeks ago,
subbed to your channel a few days ago,
and every time i want more info of a lens you got me covered.
I love landscape fotography including astrofotography.
As a beginner you have have prevented me from some bad buys.
keep up the good content!
Hi chris. Thanks a lot for the video.
Im interested to know what will you say about the tokina 14-20 2.0 in comparison to the samyang 16 2.0 .. ???
Trying to decide which one to buy specifically for astrophotography, but not only.
Would love to hear your and the chanel followers opinion..
Is this lense better then the fuji 16mm f2?
I'm assuming this is lens has a wider FOV on an APS-C than the Samyang 14mm F/2.8, because the 14mm F/2.8 is designed for full-frame, therefore 14mm is 22mm on Canon's APS-C.. Am I correct with this? I doubted myself because I read that this 16mm F/2 gives you a 79 degree field of view, rather than the 14mm EF mount which I read gives you a 90 degree field of view when on an APS-C camera... So now I'm thinking that the mm count of this lens is not already multiplied by 1.6x (the crop on canon's aps-c sensors).. would love if someone could confirm or just advise me!
This lens really is tempting, it sounds like a nice street camera.
Very late comment, but as many use such wide angles for landscape work, then the f 2 is less relevant; would be nice having quality glass with slower speed....have just heard you do not agree!
You are the best on youtube, really thank you very much for your hard work :)
how its image look on APSH 1.4 crop? any Idea?
I finally bought one of these! Cine for $130. I already love it. Thanks Chris!
It does sound like this lens did not meet your needs, so that's fair. I just think there's other things to consider in evaluating this lens.
One thing to consider about using full frame lenses adapted straight onto a Micro 4/3 sensor camera: the 2X crop factor means you are essentially blowing the lens's image up to 200%, and THEN capturing that with every pixel of the image sensor.
Let's say on a full frame camera, a detail 1 pixel wide smears out to a blur that is 3 or 4px wide. With the same sensor resolution with a smaller sensor with 2X crop, the same blurry spot will instead be 6-8px wide. Resolution aside, any errors in a full frame lens in any given point on the image will perceptually be more exaggerated on a 2X crop sensor. You're effectively spreading half the resolving power of the lens over the full area of your sensor, rather than taking advantage of all the resolving power. I would suggest using a good speedbooster to shrink the full frame image (and thus, shrink all the lens imperfections) to fit the smaller sensor. That might still not be super sharp, especially with the errors introduced by the speedbooster itself, but it could certainly help.
That being said, I have never had high expectations for Rokinon primes. They certainly get the job done for a fraction of the cost of other primes... but they are not known for their sharpness wide open, and while a 16mm MFT lens is not that wide, a 16mm full frame lens has to do a LOT of work to get such a wide field of view while minimizing barrel/pincushion distortion AND maintain such a fast aperture.
When you put a mounting adapter on a lens you change geometry of the optics somewhat. Iris also affects DOF. BTW, shallow DOF seems overused in student and indie projects. It's like they're trying to prove that they know what DOF is so they push it to the extreme.
I have the 16 and 85mm’s but with no adapters, don’t have any of these issues.
don't shoot landscape wide open. you shouldn't see any burring if you stop down to F5.6 or something
This isn't a full frame lens.. It's a crop/ apsc lens.. I've owned 2 of these and what issues you're talking about hasn't been noticed by me, or anyone else I shoot with who either owns or has used mine..
I've had no issues with any of my rokinon lens 16, 35 and 85. They all have performed good.
So, basically you're using a lens that was built for a Canon EOS on a Lumix...That's probably why it didn't work well. For example, when you use lens adaptors on your cell phone, you get distortion because of the distance the adapted lens sits from the original lens.
Well, those issues come up from sb, not from the lens itself. Anyway, blurred edge and chromatic aberration make the imagery way more cinematic I like this sense. Tho it's optically degradation, 35mm and 16mm film has it too.
Okay well a couple of things
1) You don’t generally want to shoot landscape on a 16mm lens, they’re for close up shots of your subject.
2) You’re using a speed booster which gives you chromatic aberration
3) The distortion on the canon sensor is how it’s intended to look
You’re just using the lens completely wrong
I have terrible vignette with my rokinon 16mm 2.2T on my 6d mark ii which I dont understand why because when I put other lenses it doesnt do that
i think you should work on some post production techniques to correct the softness/enhance the look, before getting yourself disappointed on a brand. Different brands have different characteristics to its lenses. have you seen anamorphic lenses yet? they have similar softness on the corners, minor barrel distortion and sometimes, slight chromatic aberration for depth. some people love that , if you want sharpness go for sigma art lenses
Did you look at your backfocus? Definitely if it's only one side, that's where my mind is going
A lot of lenses have better centre sharpness and the edges get sharper when stopped down. Wide open apertures are not generally used for landscapes did you try stopping it down?
The Meike Cinema lenses are dope
Did you say you want to get more professional and buying a rokinon lens? LMAO RIIIGGHHTTT... all the pros are using it. Come on man. Also if you are shooting landscape at t2.2 that is your mistake... when you do depth you need a smaller aperture... its basic man.
If your shooting wide open at T2.2 you gonna have a shallow depth of field. The edges aren't gonna be sharp, they're gonna be blurred.
look at the bargain priced Meike cine lenses for the BMPCC4K
Rokinon are known to have ca and are soft on the edges when wide open
Are you using a focal reducer (speed booster)?