Thank you sir, I had exactly the same problem but thanks to your video it's solved!
Great vid so what size torque bit would I need for an 8mm hex key? Got my bike and broke it same day stripped the hex 😓
0:05 i wonder if the maxle axle is steel? couldn't believe a torx driver hammered in a stripped hex head on a steel maxle that easy...
I Have had this problem and it worked for me many thanks for the advice on this one you saved my life bro
are your forks aluminium or carbon? trying to solve on my carbon roadie. want to make sure i don't damage the frame!
Amazing video I've this problem and been trying all sorts I've got a t45 on order and will attempt to on monday! Thanks again dude 🤞
I just started to strip the 6 mm, a new trek Roscoe, Rockshox 35. Wow is that tight, I'm going to try use some lube, but it sure is tight. Any more suggestions? Thanks so much. Jim
So you are a fire fighter? Wildland? I used to work for the Forest Service and got on a few fires. Take care.
Thank this was really useful, as I’ve just bought a bike with the same issue and to be honest probably made it worse, but this could save me the £50+ for a new one. Thanks 👍
thanks for this, just put my front wheel back on the lever was slack when pushing it back up, thought I'd broken it, but you saved my skin.. thanks again..!
Your video just saved me $50! I was ready to order a new one for my wife's bike since I didn't know about the 2.5mm adjuster. Thanks!
Thanks. Great video
well this was incredibly useful, than you my dude!
Very thorough, no embellishments. Thanks
Brilliant video I would never have known about the adjustment for the lever you just saved me £50
That tip for tightening the lever itself was gold. Many thanks
Very helpful! I was about to buy a new axle (that would have cost me $80!). I had no idea about the allen key fix. Now it works fine!
At 2:30, thank you so much for that tip! My lever has become a bit loose, and your tip is perfect! Thanks for creating this great video!
Cheers man, hadn’t even thought of filing the cutout. Might just get some more use out of thistle vs £45 for a new one
This help me it literally had no tension. I was wondering why it was backed out a couple times. Some on my race team said the axle is worn out. It really was rust the spring tension
Thank you. This helped fix my problem!
Thanks , you help me👍👍
As above..many thanks
very informative video. Thanks
Thanx for Help
My lever is very loose and doesn’t tighten... what could be the issue?
you saved me :-) thanks a lot, I bought new bike and I had same problem
you saved me man !
Hi, Do you know what size fits for Trinx M100 Elite 2021? I am planning to convert it to Thru Axle.
For the QR that never come loose that's good, I think people are more worried about them snapping HAHA from a 5+ foot drop.
But also I think there's more stiffness, not that I like stiff.
Again, so many negative comments on a YouTube video, this video should be getting high praises for its very clear and informative information....you Haters, go find another outlet for your unhappiness in life, don't come to YouTube and online feedback chats to vent, no one needs to hear it, and we all know who you are.
how to unscrew the rear wheel on cube reaction race 2019
i use a DT swiss RWS quick release it will never come loose
This is exactly how an informative tutorial video should be done. Concise, precise. Watch n learn people. And thanx for posting
the music is too loud
I have a 20x110mm fork and uses thru axle but no lever or not quick release and I want to change it with the one with a lever for quick release access. Which or what thru axle should I go for? Can you guide me? Thanks for the vid.
pressed the like, but those FU***G music . . .
Nice hub collection :)
Never had a quick release come loose on me.
Sorry I could only watch half of this because of the irritating loud music, I was trying to listen to what you said I never knew there was so many hubs and spindles, I will find out somewhere else
this video is just a flex to have over $1k on hubs only laying around.
jokes aside, good video, although increasing standards are driving me nuts
Solving a non-existed problem with lost of problems...progression?
Great content but the music is way too loud.
Great video, but few missing things noted : 1) do you lubricate them (axle itself and hub inside?) 2) how end nut is usually fixed to frame/fork - ex. Focus R.A.T. nuts vs others 3) how to prevent wheel theft with this new non-standard axles
50 seconds and the music has already driven me nuts
It's worrisome to know your understanding of Thru Axle is all about the rod with threaded end.
What Thru Axle is, in my opinion:
1. It's spelt Thru Axle with uppercase on both words, as it is a marketing term, eg. 'S'ram 'F'orce.
2. Thru Axle is a SYSTEM consists of:
- Forkends with complete circular hole of closed ends (no dropout on all latest models) and this is the primary requirement,
- A modified QR hub with shorter axle (yes that's an axle) in pipe form with larger hole throughout (except one make),
- A large diameter (12-20mm) rod with threaded end (of which you call it thru axle) forming inseparable structure consists of hub axle, fork, and this threaded rod,
- With or without a QR
3. Thru Axle system is introduced with primary feature to have a skewer to go through closed ends on forks, to eliminate potential catastrophic wheel separations during unbalanced or lateral dynamic shock, particularly under influence of disc braking.
4. There were myth saying that Thru Axle system is to improve fork stiffness against flexural twist under influence of disc braking, but the effect is minimal. Thru Axle system couldn't resolve impact of fork twisting due to disc braking, as in disc rubbing and disc warping persists regardless. Disc rubbing has to be resolved by wider brake pads opening. No solution as yet for severe disc rub or jam that comes after disc warp.
5. Since this rod is taking up vertical shear load (shearline between inner surface of fork and hub bearings) in place of the short protruding axle on a QR hub, it needs a larger diameter compared to conventional skewer of 5mm-thick. At the same time a wider forkends is required for vertical load bearing.
6. Since it is larger in diameter, manufacturers opt to aluminum pipe, as it is easier to deal with, compared to steel, while attempting to keep weights down.
7. In order to achieve similar clamping force as what's on a QR hub, a high tightening torque is specified (eg. 10-15Nm-ish).
8. As pointed out by Peak Torque and i agree with him, it is close to impossible to achieve specified torque, without long spanners,
9. In my opinion, the main goal of Thru Axle is still accomplished (even with a lower tightening torque) because the main goal is to eliminate wheel separation (through closed ends on forks) due to possible human error of not doing QR up adequately on conventional forkends with dropout.
10. Therefore some manufacturers still introduce QR on Thru Axle system, knowing the QR does not provide clamping force as high as conventional QR with skewer, considering consistency and ease of use.
Good vídeo... But please no music...it's hard to understand what you saying.
How wide of a tire on at front thruaxle, non-boost?
Simple and quick thanks
Thank you, Art's Cyclery. You saved me a bit of headache today.
At last, a you tube instruction video with no bs and clear instructions - well played!
This is ultimate maxle pls distinguish
wish i knew this earlier, just snapped mine lol. thanks for the video.
It's worth noting that this is the Maxle Ultimate, which is different to the Maxle Lite.
It's so simple...now that you told me.
also worth noting when you screw the maxle in place,
just set the "clock" first, then screw in until it stops, then half a turn anticlockwise. Should be perfect when you close the lever.