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looks great, well done, but wow, clamps for days yo,,,, lol You can never have too many clamps. You can never have too many clamps. I'm making a rack in my wood shop class but mines just gonna be a plain one with triangular edges instead of rounded and it's gonna look like the diamond billiards rack Guys access more then 16000 woodworking projects and plans at https://plus.google.com/110772857933664571003/posts/WsdEPFsK5ab I'm planning on making a rack for a christmas gift and just found your video while researching dimensions and designs. That's a very nice looking rack, but I have some comments/questions.
Most of my questions follow along with what Jeffrey Fluharty brought up. The only reason I can see for not maintaining consistent size of the corner triangles and sides is to alter the amount of maple reveal on one of outside corners. Presumably to indicate that corner to be the head. Doesn't that just add unnecessary complications? Why not keep all dimensions consistent and use some other method to mark the head? In my case, I plan on adding a touch of Greene&Greene style by using diamond shaped ebony plugs to mark at least 1 or maybe all corners.
When cutting the radius, it appears that you brought that arc all the way to the base of the rabbet rather than to the outer point where it meets with the inner edge of the sides. If that's true, then the thickness of the sides will end up being reduced by the depth of the rabbet, which by my estimate would bring them to 1/4" rather than their original 3/8".
I believe someone else has already mentioned this, but the easiest way to cut the rabbet with the 60 degree angle would be to use a 60 degree dovetail router bit. I just picked one up for $20 and I've seen them as low as $10. Hi Laney, great video but you didn't show how you finished the inside with that template you made. It would be good to see how you did that..Cheers, Brian. Would you make a nine ball rack the same way? Would using a dovetail bit on a router table make your rabbit easier to make? With the use of a miter gauge on the router table. Good vid Laney. However, I have questions. Why aren't all the corner pieces the same size, and then just make 2 side pieces slightly longer to provide finger clearance to pack 'em tight? You would always want the same corner on the spot, but it would be easy to mark that corner with a dot, or something, right? I don't understand the one corner smaller. Also, aren't standard pool balls 2 and a quarter inches (2.25) in.diameter? You said you were using a 2 1/8 in Forsner bit? Why not a 2 1/4 in bit? Wouldn't the radius match the balls better? Does it matter how deep the rabbet for the corners is? You didn't specify how deep you made them. Does it matter? Somewhere in the "comments" section, you mentioned a follow up video. Still planning that? I want to make one of these for my son, but I'm not sure about some things mentioned. You said the angled end of the rabbit was to be 2 3/16 from the end of the side pieces, but in the video, the side pieces looked like they came right to the apex of the corner pieces, even the pieces that were supposed to be 2 1/2 in. per side? Any help would be great. You look to be a pretty good pool player! Thanks for your time. Nice rack pool rack that is by the way what billiard hall was at down there? Very cool, Laney. I make custom pool ball racks and it's interesting to see how someone else makes theirs. I do mine totally different, mainly on a band saw rather than a table saw. That 60° angle is the key. I had a 60° dovetail router bit made to finish the rabbet. Thanks for sharing! Jim Shaw at poolballracks.com Can you explain how you used the inside jig for finishing the inside corners of the rack? That part appears to have been skipped at the end. Thank you for an excellent video. The bevel is 60 degrees. On the table saw and the miter saw you start at 90 degrees so to make a 60 degree cut you subtract that from 90 and set the saw at 30.
i think the angle of the bavel should be 60 °
Very True. I have seen some made that way, it adds a nice feature. For the rebates you could of used a dove tail bit in the router table @Daniel Cunningham been tied up with orders..but a new video comes out roday Where are the last couple weeks videos? Awesome project and it's really great how your videos have progressed! Keep up the great work Laney. We all enjoy your videos! Are all McDermott’s I layer or do some have decals? Are there shafts available for a a series 1980s model but a good one I'd give my left nut for a high end McDermott If only they could get a uniform shaft diameter so every shaft matches another butt and I don't have to sand it to size or take it to a cue shop to get matched. :/ (I own 3 McDermott's, love my cues by the way.) I got a tour of that facility and it is an amazing sight. I have two McDermott cues under $300 and they have no quality issues. I've bought two Viking cues between $350-$400 in the last 60 days; they have quality issues where both Vikore shafts have uneven taper and was warped brand new. One is in the process of being returned and one is in process of being warranty. I plan to get rid of it once it is fixed. I trust McDermott quality control. Viking quality control is horrible. Jim made me a cue when he was just doing custom cues in his basement, then he moved into a small building and I would go there and help put the rings on the cues, Custom cue FACTORY ? Kinda contradiction. I have a brand new McDermott with I-3 and a quick release joint. Unbelievable how good it hits. Absolutely amazing. Triangle billiards basically threw in the I-3 for free. Plus a $129 bag. Awesome. Thanks. i wish i had mcdermott's best cue but i can only dream about it Y did she roll it at the end