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GR5 titanuim bolts? ano po masasabi orig ?
Install on your bike for better review
Hindi po ba sya kumukupas?
Hindi ba madaling bumilog yan?
For brake caliper ito diba?
Anong size ng para sa bottle cage at bolts sa carrier sir?
tunay ba boss yung titanuim na bolts?
thank you sir sa pagturo pano manukat ng bolts hahaha ngayon ko lang nalaman
Have you used any of these techniques?
Weld a piece of steel onto the head and use this to unscrew. Recessed bolts can be welded with a copper tube shoved down the recess. Best for steel part and steel bolts. Build up the weld using flux wire welder. Weld the steel piece onto the built up weld. Alternatively use high strength epoxy to glue the Allen key to the damaged head. Be sure to strip any grease or dirt from bolt head.
Its not scarificial allen key, with a hair drier you can warm the glue and take it out :D
the last four tags are... interesting
What I have done before with a very light aluminium stem bolt is to tap in a flat head screwdriver so it went across the hex and used that to extract the bolt. Then I replaced it with a stainless steel one. I would go titanium but I find you end up having to use smurf snot on them all the time or watch them unscrew themselves, especially on rotors, I never seem to need to do that with a stainless steel bolt.
You need to wear safety glass when drilling metal
The top rear shock bolt was stuck solid in my main pivot. It was an aluminum bolt and the pivot is also aluminum. My frame came with the shock pre-installed, and the head of the bolt stripped out the first time I tried to remove it. Shock was still working all right wso I left it in place. Fast forward two years. Shock finally got leaky and needed servicing. I ordered the replacement bolt from the manufacturer. Tried the sacrificial hex key and JB Weld. No joy. Tried a bolt extractor. It snapped off inside the bolt head. I drilled a couple of tiny holes in the threded end of the bolt then used a file and a handheld rotary tool to connect the holes into a slot. Removed the pivot and shock from the bike and clamped the pivot in my workbench. Stuck a screwdriver into the slot and used a crescent wrench to torque it. The Aluminum gave way. I ended up drilling down through the center of the slot in the threaded end far enough to go through the thickness of the threads in the pivot. Then used the next size of drill bit, and the next size and so on until it was almost the size of the threads. I set a center punch down into the hole and tapped it. The bolt sheared off nicely leaving a thin sleeve of threads in place. Next I filed and polished until I could just barely see the threads, then used a pick to dig out pieces of the threads until the pivot was clean. Whew! Didn't have to replace the pivot or the shock. But this was the biggest pain in the neck I ever experienced in over 30 years of working on my own bikes.
Fucking alan bolts, should all be replaced with torx.
You can also simply use vise grips or water pump pliers to remove the bolt.Because the bolts on a bicycle have a big surface.There are many ways to remove rounded bolts.
My XT crank had a stripped head, used an M10 drill bit to remove the head which allowed me to take off the chainring. I then used pliers to turn the remainder of the bolt and out of the crank.
You can weld a bolt to the messed up one and use a socket to remove it after.
thank u so much man !!!!!
if all of those fail. mig weld a nut on the end
Thanks for this your video helped me get off an axel bolt:) I used number 4 :) thanks so much
The glove trick man, that was gold!!! Always used elastic bands for stripped screws, but for small screws it was always hit-n-miss. With your silicone glove trick they don't.
Knipix cobra pliers are a mechanics best friend
should I grease stem bolts on an aluminum stem? And with what grease?
Anyone ever used any of these for a stripped DA7900 chainring bolt? The last of 5 is stripped out and seems didn't have any anti-sieze either. For reference it is a single sided T25 Torx bolt. I am going to try the rubber glove hack today, hopefully it works - I don't want to use the glue in method - just in case it doesn't work!
If you don't have a glove at hand, or the glove doesn't give you enough grip, you can try with teflon tape
How does that extra end on those park sliding Allen keys work? On their website they say it's to help remove stripped screws
$50 for coolness. Why not. I did.
Is It True Titanium Bolt Not Easily Rust Than Stock Bolt On Any Kind Bike Like A MTB, Road, Etc?
Nice... Like you, I'm bored, just ordered matching titanium rotor/caliper/stem/stem cap/bottle cage bolts. I will bet that I'll save a whole 30 or 40 grams LOL,, but it'll look good doing it.
Grease or locktite?
I have received my red ones today 😃 Hope they will hold strong 😃
Nice upgrade Jase! if you brake hard enough for long enough your rotors will match also :)
Keep up the content great videos
Over this lockdown but at least now we can go riding at a few places in Auckland
very helpful, thank you.
Just a quick tip, once you insert the tube to the bleeding nipple and open that nipple, theres gonna be some leftover air from the connection of the two. Wait for that air bubble to rise into the syringe, so you are not actually pushing the air bubble inside the hose. You can speed that air bubble rise to the syringe by tapping the hose carefully with your fingers or some small tool.
why wast your time with filming the process if your going to just cover it with verbiage
Thanks homeboy skillet ! Just bled my brakes myself for the first time ever and they feel stronger than they ever have before
And, it's an 'Allen' or 'Hex' wrench, not an 'Alan' you tool.
Global Basket Ball Network lol.. Nice video.
Does all shimano breaks use same method for bleeding or different ways? Thank you🙂
jeez, the last 5 mins was all on air bubbles, i got lost and confused. ill try another video
I don’t know where this nipple thing is on mine. There is a rubber cap with what looks like an Allen bolt and it feels a bit oily
Love this tutorial, so methodical and clear. I was struggling with my rear brake caliper, followed the steps and fixed it. Bike shop solution was replace caliper and brake lever plus hose.
why would you mix good new oil with the old oil in an effort to flush it out???..... couldnt you just open the bleed screw and pumpt the brakes tp expell the old oil and then fill it up?
Some segments in the video are stamped not adjacent to each other
I get my brakes ‘bleed’ everytime I get new pads but the worker doesn’t do it but we still get charged for it
I had absolutely no tension in my back shimano slx, it got more spongy before I lose every bit of stopping power on the trails and i kid you not almost died. Had a friend look at it and said it was for sure needing bleeding. I’m a huge bike shop person, as technical as i would like to be I’m not. But I ordered a cheap kit and some fluid on amazon and with the help of this video, and oil spillage on what seems to be everything i own. My brakes stop better than ever. If your doubting yourself dont. Just do it
Just wondering how you clean the funnel and hose afterwards? Is it ok to use washing up liquid as long as it’s rinsed well?
Nicely done, kept it simple and to the point. Good job!
A useful tip, use a syringe to suck out the oil if the funnel is full 4:00, to prevent removing it each time to empty it.
Ive seen many bleedbrake vids but now I understand, thanks gmbn.
Why do you need to push the pistons back? In my understanding, the pistons have their position according to the pads + rotor thickness so if you push them back, you allow less space for the brake fluid in the system. Therefore, the feeling at the lever won't be that good because you need to squeeze it longer to push the pistons to push the pads until they actually touch the rotor and start braking. Or am I missing something?
Do all mountain bikes with disk brakes use brake fluid or is a specific type?