what has the strongest bite over all any and all conditions? semi-metallic?
do sram pads fit into shimano?
Having watched this video, I'm interested in switching from my current organic to metallic pads next, for more power (though I'm in mostly-dry NorCal). When swapping pad compound, I saw a SRAM video saying that I need to replace rotors together (so that they don't get mixed together): https://youtu.be/xTGHdFt5Y-s (at 1:50~). Is this really recommended/necessary? Just wondering f this is rather a nice-to-do theoretical advice or a must-do practical advice?
Is it true? do you have to run a specific rotor for the sintered metal brake pads?
I've been using Resin Pads in this very rainy south Florida Summer and they make so much noise when dirt/mud gets in there. I'm looking forward to trying semi-metalics next.
You know what's better at drawing out heat than steel or aluminium... copper.
When I'm shredding downhill and rocks flying I don't really give a flying fcuk about brake noise. I wanna be able to stop. That is why I use metallic. Btw it's not even noisy at all if it's not dirty, but it just bites like a great white. I love it.
is there any difference in fading between resin pads with cooling fin vs metallic pads without cooling fin?
Did MTX ever send you those organic pads to try?
So organic is quieter but not silent correct? I still hear howl sound from Organic pads on road bike sram rotors.
тормоза придумали трусы!
I like my brakes to make a little noise on the downhills. It means hikers can hear me and I don't need to ring the bell.
Metal for sure. Way longer lasting and with everything adjusted properly i've not really had too much issue with noise.
In Zagreb when it rains metal pads squeek like the train. That is why I use resin here
I’m a morbidly obese borderline alcoholic father. I run organic and they work great and stop my big fat ass @250lbs on my hard tail no problem.
Hi, could you please tell me what pads are good for storm rotors? Mrtalic semi or organic?
Organic have metal shavings? Mine do and say organic?.? Anybody know?
Sintered typically has better performance under high heat and will fade less. If you're downhilling long descents, you want sintered. Sintered also has better initial bite. Yes they do squeal, you just get used to it. Sintered pads on motorcycles and cars squeal too.
Got some code rsc’s on my Fezzari pretty sure they are sintered pads. They loud as hell. Sounds like a goose under water
Do hope rotors work with metal pads?
Friends, this is just a wrap-up of a huge test, I've been doing for over a year. Do NOT put your brakes to such an extreme and DON'T spray hot brakes with the water!
Good test but thumbs down just for the use of an ebike
I'm on a Trek FX 3 2021 with Shimano RT26 Ice Tech 160mm 6 Bolt Rotors, matched with Shimano B01S Resin Brake Pads. (Resin only stated)
If I wanna improve braking performance, can I swop to Disco Brake Pads, namely the Ceramic Hard & Soft compounds, & the Kevlar type without any need to change the Rotors?
Live in Singapore, mostly equatorial weather, hot, humid climate, where it often rains from November to January. Ride mostly on pavements & tarmac roads.
Often carry some weight behind, so effective braking is a concern.
Hey! Love your videos! This one is SO important! So, are Disco brand pads the best? Where do I get them? Are you sponsored by Disco? What other brake pad brands would you recommend?
I have SRAM RS Guide brakes/calipers.
Hey! I love your videos!
So, after watching your brake pad test, I ordered 2 complete sets (8 pads) of (British) Gorilla ceramic mtb pads. The price was very reasonable, about $40 U.S. for 2 sets. I was quite happy with the performance of the pads after bedding them in.
My problem is I believe I have contaminated the front pads with a spray solution designed for applying vinyl decals.
Do you have any good methods for cleaning possibly contaminated pads?
Just got some Discobrakes Ceramics on advice from this video. The stopping power just after bedding them in is incredible.
I also used this tip of rubbing the pads under water before installing them - https://youtu.be/piWBVDh1pTE?t=290
i don't have any brake pads i usually just use my face
Thank you! Gonna get myself some ceramic pads
You didn’t mention resin
Okay its time to order ceramic
hello! I wonder what's the computer bike you are using on this video, looks nice!
You also didn't change rotors between pads so as you changed materials more and more times the percentage of maximum power possible by each pad would also decrease
Great video, were the ceramic pads the hard or pro version from Disco Brakes?
Thank you! awesome testing!!
I’m using tektro pads on new Ebike. They sound like a toilet flushing after only 20 km. Have you ever heard a sound like this before? See my video ‘disc brakes sound like they have their own plumbing’ I had them Replaced with jagwire semi metallic pads and so far, after 35 km, no noise.
Stopping distance isn't so much reliant on brake pad friction, but rather tire friction. You can have the most powerful pads in the world, but you'll still lock up your tires.
In other words, disregard resin?
Whick break pads have the longest life span becuase i brought some resion ones and they lasted me about 4 mounth to the point that they dont work anymore and to replace them they r 10 quid a pair and that is a lot of money to me because i still in highschool so which break would be best i need some that have a long life span and that are good at stoping please help me
I heard ceramics brakes are good but is it true they wear out quickly? I'm not a regular biker, I don't know which brakes to go for. At the moment its factory brakes (resin). These have been contaminated and making a nasty noise. Stopping power is bad. I'm thinking kevlar or ceramics.
What are you wearing mate? Look like a clown all you need is the red👃.
Would get more views is you had the nose!
Brilliant. Just followed this and the brakes work (in my garage). Yet to try in reality!
Step 1. Remove your Avid brakes from your bike.
Step 2. Place Avid brakes in the bin.
Step 3. Replace with Shimano.
Step 4. Done!
Excellet! My breaks work again! :-]
This video was god awful why do I have to sit through 5 minutes of bullshit before you get to the real deal? “Don’t caption the video as “how to bleed your breaks” it should’ve been “ 5 minutes of bullshit and stupid jokes before we get to the real information”
Did you used to work for Cycle Surgury in Spitalfields in the mid 90's?
Followed instructions (good btw) and got a lot of air out, was feeling that it was going to be goo but when i took out the lever syringe and put the screw back in, the breaks were worse than before! Only stopping the wheel after like 5 seconds! Quite a lot of fluid leaked out, so did air get back into the system when i took the syringe out?
on my Elixir5, i've done all the steps, but when I unscrew the syringe brake fluid leaks out, and the result is soft brakes which don't rebound the lever. How to fix?? thanks
I'm confused - you say we need to remove ALL the air, but every time I pull the plunger down to create a vacuum, loads more bubbles appear? I've clamped off and everything?
So I bled the front elixr 1 and was good as new. The bleed screw is on top of caliper. However, the rear bleed screw seems to face downwards angle so when releasing the syringe fluid comes out and I tried it 3 times it got better but still kinda spongey on the rear brake Lever? Any hints guys?
Thanks for the video . Left handle rear brake ?
i done this a few days ago and i was all in dot4 oil because main piston gasket was failed and oil came from brake lever
This video just taught me that I am not going to attempt this job. Ever.
What if no fluid goes from bottom to top?
Might be a good idea to change gloves or take them off before you handle the pads and putting them back in...
Al makes a mistake in his process regarding the lever.
How much fluid does bleeding the brakes really use. Very little, if anything at all, it seems. When I did mine most fluid used seems to be fluids that spilled during installation and removal of the syringe to and from the brake wells.
Bought a bleed kit. Followed all instructions. Did everything right. Brakes still sucked. Repeated. Two times. Brakes only slightly better. Squealed like mad out on the trail.....
Bought Shimano brakes. Worked first time. No slop, no squealing, perfect braking. Lesson learned.
Your videos are very helpful thank you,
Isn't it good practice to push out the pistons slightly and clean them before pushing them in else you could contaminate the seals which could cause leaks?
Great advice Sir. :)
Thanks for the #3. Helps me a lot
I've only ever heard of organic/resin pads and semi-metallic/metallic pads for bikes. I have ceramic pads for my car but who sells ceramic or kevlar (never heard of that for brakes) for bikes? @SickBiker
If the pads became contaminated from, say, lubricant picked up from the road, wouldn't working the pads with a #220 sand paper and alcohol deal with this issue effectively?
Thanks for this video. I changed my pads yesterday and couldn't get the calipers to open far enough to get the wheel in. Your tip about opening the fluid valve fixed it.
Thank you so much, this video is very much helpful for me,.. now i can do it on my own .
I run the pads right down to the backing plate, i paid for all the material im gonna use all the material
Frame with integrated derailleur mount... One good crash away from the bin...
How about to clean the pistons? Doesn't matter that you reset the pistons if the pistons doesn't move evenly because of dirt n stuff.
Another good solvent for cleaning rotors is isopropyl alcohol 99%.
PRO TIP.... Use Rim Brakes.
Great tips, learnt some great points, even though been doing it for years!
Could have said what was needed in half the time and words. Needed to practice your speech. Other than that great information.
Anyone know what works with Shimano BL MT200? I can’t find them anywhere yet
Do i have to remove the wheel or can i just remove the calipers instead??
New bike, new brake pads, new rotors. Does it need more fluid if the throw is too low when braking?