Alloy Bike Outdoor Cycling MTB Mountain Rear Disc Mechanical Caliper -MAYIS Price in India, Specifications, Reviews & Offers. Buy online at Amazon . Compare Prices and Save!

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Buy Alloy Bike Outdoor Cycling MTB Mountain Rear Disc Mechanical Caliper -MAYIS online at Amazon. ❄ Smooth and stable control. ❄ alloy rear disc , durable and useful. ❄ Easy to install on your bike. ❄ With strong king force. ❄ Excellent heat dissi...
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Alloy Bike Outdoor Cycling MTB Mountain Rear Disc Mechanical Caliper -MAYIS Features

  • ❄ Smooth and stable control.
  • ❄ alloy rear disc , durable and useful.
  • ❄ Easy to install on your bike.
  • ❄ With strong king force.
  • ❄ Excellent heat dissipation effect.

The lowest Alloy Bike Outdoor Cycling MTB Mountain Rear Disc Mechanical Caliper -MAYIS Price in India is ₹1,317 at Amazon.
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Alloy Bike Outdoor Cycling MTB Mountain Rear Disc Mechanical Caliper -MAYIS Reviews from YouTube

Mechanical Disc Brakes | Juin Tech F1, Zrace, Nutt | The ultimate guide
Why Cable Brakes are BETTER Than Hydraulic Brakes
How to Align a Mechanical Disc Brake on a Bike
Mechanical or Hydraulic disc brakes?
Hi @tracevelo, did you have a look at the new zrace BR-005 / onirii BR-005. Our favorite Asian sellers claim a significant 40% improvement in braking power.
is it compatible for Mountainbike frames?
What about TRP?
the updated zrace brakes now have a little seal around the piston shaft thing. The BR-005's
If Ive got mechanical discs that are the one side and disc move type can I still swap them out for the tuin tech F1s or will /can I have to replace the disc too?
Wasnt the weight wrong ? The cheapo ones still had the mounts on the others didnt
There are clamp-on cable stops that you can buy but they're really made for round-tube frames and may look somewhat ugly.
Hello just want to ask if these caliper brakes also compatible for a center lock rotors? Thanks
I had the Zrace brakes and they simply did not stop my bike going down hill, no matter how are I pulled on the brake levers. I wouldn't buy them. I replaced them with TEKTRO MD-C550 for $128, fully mechanical, and they work great. Not quite as good as my Shimano fully hydraulic but they work well enough and I'm actually able to stop when I need to :).
This guy nails it!
Gamut, not gambit.
I like the part where you used your Nutts to stop the bike.
Man, that intro hits different!
My MX9 VALK eBike came with a different version of Nutt brakes, and I love them. Its the first hybrid cable/oil brake ive ever used and I rate it highly myself.
Personally, I would associate brake grind and noise, solely with the Disc Pad, which you never mentioned at all.
I'm trying to move on from rim brakes to disc brakes road bikes. I'm not a commuter. I do quick club/group rides. Like you said Luke, a full hydraulic set is expensive and is a little bit difficult to find. (I live in Curaao, the Caribbean) I buy most of the parts on line.I thought about building a bike with mechanical disc brakes to start with and afterwards replace/upgrade it with hydraulic brakes. It seems like the Juin Tech came out the best?! We do quick 40km rides and and long 100km with everything in it..Do you recommend me to start with the setting I mentioned above, or just wait to do everything at once?I want to be at ease while I'm riding and not worrying about the mechanism failing. If you know what I meanThanks in advance
I only received one adapter for both zrace brakes. Is it okay to mount the rear brake directly to the frame?
Installed Juin Tech on my electric bike 3 months ago...the brakes seem to have lost some stopping there a way to adjust the brakes....thanks.
New mechdisc break need to use for few ride or few days before it can get its max .perpormance
Thanks for the budget friendly gear videos!My bike was only 20 more than a 105 groupset brand new and the budget friendly rolling upgrades I've found watching your videos satisfy the gear acquisition syndrome without leaving me destitute
Yo Bruh. Before you leave some asinine comment like "whatever bruh. Try taking it on XXX black diamond trail." This video was meant specifically for road and gravel bikes. Too late to correct my mistake in not making that clear. Not too late for you not to be a dick on the internet tho. Bruh.
I'm using avid elixir 1 hydraulic brakes that came on my 2012 KHS Alite 2000. It has about 11'000 km on it, changed the front pads 4 times and front rotor once, the rear pads only twice. I have never done any brake fluid change as there is no spongyness and they perform well still. It might be a fluke but I wont touch the brake fluid until they start to sponge up or show signs of performance issues. I think the braking performance is slightly less compared to when it was new but I can still stop aggressively in a short distance from full speed.
People referring to hydro brakes as new technology, been around since the 1950s. Not having the ability to manage a hydro brake failure on the road isn't justification for cable brakes, go learn buy the right tools
I'm using cable operated callers with set of 24 year old XT levers (bought in 1998!). I built up a bikepacking rig a few years ago using some surplus parts I had. They work fine.
Avid bb7 are the best cable disc brakes!
My issue with cable discs on drop bars, when your hands are on the hoods, it's really hard to get a good stop (for me), which isn't the same with hyrdos. Similar to your clip at 1:00, I have to drop my hands to get enough leverage to really stop with cable. I used to use flat bars for ages and never had the leverage issue so always ran cabled.
Cable brakes don't have anywhere near the power of hydraulic, I hardly have to press the brakes to stop my bike, the original brake pads lasted 5 years, I have fit aset of hydraulics on my other new bike, cable are rubbish and prehistoric
Stopping power difference is only marginal.
I'm putting BB7's on my Hanebrink, I'll probably put them on my Sasquatch in place of the hydraulic DB5's and I'm more than happy with the cable brakes on my Rove... Plenty of power for what I do & ease of use. I can't see myself ever bothering with hydraulic brakes again.
Make sense. Another great episode
love your reviews.....ty
I totally agree with Tai Lopez hereLet me add that with cable brakes, you can modulate the pressure. Hydros are just binary on/off. Not all situations require maximum brake power. Sometimes you need a gradual pull back.
Hydraulics win big on modularity and tactile feel. Cables stretch, bowdens twist, and the plastic liner inside those bowdens compresses and wears out. A good hydraulic system doesn't suffer from those problems. It's about the feel under the index finger - immediate and crisp, no squishiness. For me, _that_ is the big win for hydraulics (not the maximum braking torque that the brake can produce, which can be easily upgraded by simply using a bigger brake disc.)Of course, for bikepacking applications, all of the above will matter much less than the fact that it's a pain in the ass to tweak/service hydraulic systems, or even just take them off the bike if you have internal routing (on many road bikes now)...
Just went for a new bike with cable discs over hydraulic, which was within my budget for the exact same reasons.
Micro shift is actually really good
, ,
Do these titles really get more click bait? They must. Nobody ever said cables were better.
Hydro brakes were a solution to a problem caused by the widespread adoption of disc brakes for road/gravel bikes (too little leverage compared to rim brakes), the adoption of which was incidentally just an industry ploy to sell people new shit they didn't need
If you can lock the wheel, you have the same stopping power, regardeless of the system. After locking the wheel, it's the tyre, the inclination and the pavement that will decide wether you stop or not.
Not a mountain biker. Its funny how you pigeon hole mountain bikers. Steve from Hardtail Party is a big proponent of Paul Klampers. He like yourself builds and modifies bikes for review. If you watch his channel you have more in common than you think. It would be cool if you did a collaboration.The more I watch your channel the more Im wondering why you come out swinging at air
I like the trick of placing a piece of white paper behind the caliper and shining light onto it. That's the kind of simple genius that I'd never figure out on my own.
Whats the tools used? Allen wrench? Specialty?
Followed the instructions and everything is fixed! Thanks a lot and keep up the good work :)
Theoretically this all seems very basic and simple, it's literally just aligning something, but i'm having such a tough time with adjusting my single lever single adjustment brakes. Seems like no matter what I do I have rubbing or very weak brakes that'll never stop the bike. Like the brakes would be very weak, i turn the adjuster 1/4, then I get scraping. You'd think the clearance on the other side is too bit but it isn't. Doesn't make sense to me.
I watched several videos on this subject, I have to say yours is the best and clearest by far. Not only clear, well presented, and with a superior production quality, but accurate. Other presentations are not only shaky, and repetitive, but outright wrong, or ay least sloppy and long winded.Well done
best and most detail easy to understand instruction video so far !! thanks keep up the good work
Very well done, this video! Must have cost a tonne of effort.
Watched over 20 vids of Bike tech work and your channel of this video is very good of explaining the system as Clear Picture of Work. Im glad I can subscribe to this channel.
Thank you so much you have been a great help
I got a Fatboy 800w and my brakes drive nuts with rubbing sound!
What shimano mechanical disc brake are you using and what pads?
Helped me with my Tektro MD-C510
Thanks 4 the tips how to align
warning dont have your outer cable sleeve to long on disk brakes it can course them to lock on. I spent 2 years with the problem I went as for in getting a new bike after coming off the bike and knocking me knee cap out of place .recently cut the outer casing 4 inch shorter greased the inner cable it works :)
It was reall helpful i thought my rin was to big for my bike but thanks so much
What kind of shimano calipers are those?
This is so helpful! Very precise for a would be bike mechanic! Kudos
Great video thanks. 1 question. Without having a work stand is the alignment affected if done with the bike upside down. I do t think I saw this mentioned.
It's so awesome this video took off the way it did! I got a lot of great questions and points out of the comment section. So, let me address them:*"Did you bed in the brakes?"* Yes. As I noted on screen at 1:23, I did it off camera to keep the video shorter. I did three laps down the hill off camera to bed things in. Some may feel this isn't enough, some may feel it's plenty. I felt this was enough to get the pads bedded in without having the testing take a week to complete.*"Did you use fresh rotors each time you changed the pads/brakes?"* No. Due to COVID cleaning out supply of bike parts, and just the cost of having to buy three (or more) sets of rotors, I decided to reuse the same SLX rotors. Could this have affected the outcome? Maybe. Would it have been a meaningful change? Likely not. I couldn't find anything on the web that said it would matter after the pads bedded in. If someone wants to make a video testing this out, I'd encourage them to do so! It would be way more educational to everyone than a speculative comment thread.*"Hey! Higher-end rotors cool better!"* Yes! Very much so! But that's difficult to test in a quantitative way in the real world. I would have had to find a massive hill and used the same braking force the whole way without locking the tires, hard to do reliably and would have greatly increased the time to do all the tests. I just decided to focus on what I could measure with the resources and time I had available. Also, this was aimed at people on a budget so $90-$120 (USD) for a set of rotors is pricey compared to the MT201 brake system. Unless you commute in a very hilly area or are really pushing the limits of what your bike can take on, you won't really see the benefits of more expensive rotors. If someone wants to make a video testing this out, I'd encourage them to do so!*"Why didn't you do more runs?"* I would have loved to do more runs, but there is only so much time in the day after working a full-time job. Three runs were enough to get a good idea of if there was any noticeable change. As I said in the video, there's a ton of variables that go into this and it's impossible to control for them all. Human error doubly so.*"You used the wrong tires!"* Yes, I would have gotten better traction with road tires. However, we weren't testing the grip of the tires. This test was only to test the brake system.*"I would have done the tests differently..."* I fully encourage people to make their own videos doing similar brake tests! I'd be very interested to see what results other people get, and it would also help people appreciate how much work went into this video behind the scenes.At the end of the day, this was mostly some fun backyard science just to get a good guess on what would be the best bang for buck. I leave the real science to the people with lab coats and a Phd.
Question, can you change hydraulic brakes to mechanical disc brakes?
Why didn't you normalize the speed?
I'm building a gravel bike from an old Mountain bike, and I'm welding on disk brake mounts to be able to put some on. Really perfect video to see where to put my money
I mean... I have been thrown over the handlebar with simple V-brakes too
Tyre choice is important for braking to I've noticed a softer rubber compond helps improve braking performance hard rubber will skid more and will take longer to stop.
On the rotors... think sport motorcycles. 2 BIG brakes in the front... one small one in the rear. BUT... off-road... bigger rotors can get twitchy, and cause lock-ups.
i just replaced the barely effective and mostly frustrating front and rear mechanical calipers with fairly cheap [ $60 ] hydraulic calipers and levers on my heavy [ 86 pounds ] E-bike.............WHAT an improvement ! best money i ever far.
Hydraulics was created due to the first design of the mechanical discs so really they should just no longer make mechs. The mechs will always have that issue of slack backing when at fullest point of braking and the hydraulics do just that of bypassing the physics of the mech discs.
After running mechanical discs for over 7 years, I can absolutely recommend hydraulics.Upgraded my fork, laced a wheel for it because no one really makes 27.5 with 20x110 axles anymore and then I gave it a nice 4 pot with a 203mm disc and a 2 pot with a 180 in the rear, took some getting used to as I kept accidentally locking up the rear but the front has an insane amount of stopping power.Gave me way more confidence on the trails, especially after my mechanicals decided to go on holiday when I rode down an almost vertical slope haha.I've got the Magura mt trail sport if anyone's curious, they deliver amazing performance for their comparatively low price at 150 and the levers are symmetrical meaning you could run them on the wrong side as most people do or you can have your front brake on the right side where it belongs, all by just turning them around, more brake levers should be designed like this.
If you're on a budget the first place i'd start with is buying a decent 2nd hand bike, then you effectively double the capability & components of the the bike you can buy with your budget. Obviously you have to do your research & ask questions, & then for upgrades shop around.. As for brakes, I'm running an oldschool 2014 Downhill MTB i bought 2nd hand, even running 26inch wheels, but with recent shock upgrades on front & rear. The first thing I needed to upgrade was the brakes, i did my research & Magura MT5s turned out to be the best 4 pot hydraulic brakes i could find for the price. A ridiculous $250 nzd front & rear incl delivery UK to NZ. Combined with 203mm shimano rotors the level of confidence a decent set of brakes gives you is amazing! The ability to modulate on steeps & coming into drops without locking up the rear wheel is so confidence inspiring. knowing you wont loose control, & knowing that if you need to slow down that you'll be able to, means you have the confidence to go faster. While most of your stopping power comes from the front, most of your braking when out on trails is modulating your speed, and comes from the back. On a decent set of brakes if you just slam on the front brakes you endo, but when your riding you never just slam on the front brakes, you modulate the rear then the front. I mostly only use my front brakes modulating in tandem with the rear on steep sections, (while sat over the rear wheel) or when pulling to a stop.While it's awesome to see how much effort you put into this video, i feel it's not quite a real world scenario for a mtb, as when your riding you don't just slam on your brakes, otherwise you endo if the front or you skid if rear. One which results in a crash, the other which can make you loose control & crash also.. What makes a good set of brakes is how well they modulate, & all of the components, a bigger rotor, metal pads, stronger pistons & preferably 4, how well the calliper dissipates heat etc. All of it combines to influence braking. Now i have a really good set of brakes for the price ($250nzd f/r delivered is cheap for a 4 piston brake) i would never go back to an average set. The level of confidence you get from having good brakes literally compensates for your own lack of skill as a rider if your just getting back into it like me, & enables you to ride harder & faster & steeper & get better quicker..I would advise a decent set of brakes for a good price as a worthy spend far sooner than i would a dropper post for eg or even a nicer seat which are both more a nice to haves (& i pedal my Downhill bike uphill to get to the downhill trails) a decent set of brakes literally allows you to go faster, safer..
Men u forget about one main thing here. The brakes to become 100 p efficient, need about 100 km run distance with it, just to make the pads fit the rotor in the proper way.
the feature to get more breaking power is the area of breaking between pad and the disc rotor, a pad with bigger area you will get more breaking power, the first rotors had bigger area and they had bigger thickness such 2 mm, I'm going to put like example scooter's break, It has a diameter of 160 mm the same as a bicycle, but the difference is that the contact's area is bigger It mean the scooter's pad is bigger than the bicycle.none of bicycle brake functions with electric bicycle, because a e bikes are heavier and they can get mayor speeds
I have both types and hydraulic brakes are soooooo much better at doing it all : modulating the speed, lever effort, minimum noise, minimum braking distance. So much better.
Never use resin only disk with metal pads, it just won't break at all.
wait you guys use your left hand for your front wheel brake?
If you are a pro you rate hydraulic brakes, otherwise stick with a compressionless brake cable set, and trp spykes!!
Thanks, great info. Have you done tests with the compressionless housing or the cable actuated hydraulic calipers?
Can you do the same style test for rim breaks?

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